This is what the ignition control unit connector looks like 2 rows x 8 pins - off set from each other. There is a lock on both top and bottom of the connector, You much press them both in when removing the connector.
Here we have the top view of the connector The bottom is similar with a couple slight differences.
This back cover holds the wire seals in place These retainers are fragile even when new. be sure your work is complete before installing it. If you break one while working on this housing I have just the cover available above.
From the front side you can see the pins (terminals) will not be so easy to remove. There is a locking tab on each side of the terminal itself that will require patience or a special tool This tool has special tip that will go over the pin And push both tabs in at the same time. These tools are made by TE/Amp, Molex, Sumitomo and others. I will have one of these available above.
Hold the housing in one hand and insert the tip of the extractor tool as shown. (with the tip of the tool on each side of the pin terminal)
Now push inward on the tool to press the retaining locks located on each side of the terminal, (you may have to squeeze the tip of the tool, but this shouldn't be necessary) Lightly pull back on the wire, removing the terminal and seal at the same time.
The wire seal on this connector goes on the wire first, and does not get crimped to the terminal. It will get held in place with a seal retainer that goes on the back side of the connector. 1- Insert the the seal on the wire. 2- Strip the wire insulation to the proper length 3- Crimp your conductor crimp 4- Crimp your insulation crimp
The insulation crimp tabs are rather long. They must be properly crimped (rolled) as seen in this photo. The terminal crimp tabs need to be adjusted so they are parallel to each other. They must fit in the die properly and remain parallel.
This is now ready to be inserted into the housing. It will only go in one way and cannot be inserted upside down. Once the terminal is locked in the housing. The seal will get pushed in the housing behind the terminal. The remaining needed dummy plugs will go in the empty cavities. Then the seal retainer will get get snapped on the back side. (This crimp was done with PA-21 by Engineer-Made in Japan. It has limited use for Mini/Micro terminals due to the very narrow dies. But iti works great for terminals like these and other tiny pins like the JST-JWPF series terminals.)
PA-21 Mini Terminal Crimp tool for MX Mini-Fit Jr
Made in Japan
This tool has multiple terminal applications.
Molex, Amp ,JST, JAE, and many others.
PA-21 $45.95 each No Stock!! Check Amazon
Die thickness is 1.8mm
Die width is shown on the tool 1.6mm, 1.9mm, 2.2mm, and 2.5mm
Normally sell for $56.00 to $75.00
For terminals available at Cycle Terminal -This tool is only recommended for the
terminals on this page.
JST...... BD • BH • BHM • BHS • BHT • BL • EH • EL • HL • HL • HM • JFA • JWPF •
KRW • LC • LV • LV • MWP • NH • NV • NVA • PA • PAD • PAL • PAL • PH • PHD • PNI
• PUD • RA • RCY • RE • RE • SAN • SAN • SBN • SCN • SDN • SL • SM • SM RCY • SV
• VA • VB • VH • VH • VL • VU • VYH • XA • XAD • XH • XH • XL • XM • XMA • YL • YLH
• YLN • ZE • ZL • ZM